Blog – Page 15 – K9 Korral

Safety Precautions – Inside and Outside the Home

With all the everyday things that humans come into contact, such as certain foods and common household products. Many can be toxic to your dog or puppy so be sure to take necessary safety precautions.

Garden and lawn hazards such as more then a few plants, given a nibble or two, can turn your dog’s day upside down. Most just cause an upset stomach, but some can be fatal. Make sure that if you do choose to have these plants that they are out of the reach of your dog at all times.

Play dough consists of just a few ingredients. Though, two of the three ingredients are perfectly harmless, the third worth mentioning is salt. Dogs may enjoy the play dough’s salty taste, just remember that if too much is consumed, it can cause salt toxicity, which unfortunately, there is no antidote for this reaction. So just be careful and stay observant the next time you catch your pup rummaging through your children’s things.

Splintering bones such as from a chewed chicken bone can be very hazardous to your canine. Pieces of the bone can get stuck causing damage in the dog’s intestines and throat. When a dog is given any type of real bone including cow leg, supervision of course, is always recommended as pieces of the bone can break off. So just stay cautious and be sure to pick up and take away any small pieces so they are no chances they can be ingested. A safe bet is to purchase a
bone specifically intended for a dog to chomp on.

Antifreeze is perhaps the number one hazard to a dog. Less than one tablespoon of anti-freeze could be lethal to a dog 20 pounds and under. Your dog will smell the sweetness and may want to lick it up. This is dangerous for your dog if ingested, so when storing antifreeze, keep it far and well out of reach. Check under your car every now and then to make sure it is not on your drive way, just to be safe.

Chocolate is another common household hazard for your dog. Although it may be one of your favorite thing to eat, it can be very dangerous for your dog. Chocolate contains caffeine which can make your dog very ill. This stimulant can raise the hearts rate, unfortunately to the point of being fatal. The effect it has depends both on the dogs size and the amount of chocolate that the dog has consumed.

By Mark S.|November 21st, 2011|Dog Care Tips|Comments Off

The Sport of Dog Agility

Dog Agility is an international sport. Direct your dog through an obstacle course in a race against the clock to measure accuracy and completion. Neither the dog nor obstacles can be touched by the handler. Consequently the handler’s controls are limited to voice, movement, and various body signals, requiring exceptional training of the animal and coordination of the handler.

The History of the Sport:

The sport’s roots can be traced back to the late 1970’s to a demonstration that was held at Crufts Dog Show in the United Kingdom. Dogs were required to run around a course designed similar to horse jumping courses during intermission as a way to entertain the audience. It has since spread rapidly around the world.

What is an Agility Course?

Agility courses consist of several standard obstacles laid out by a judge. All obstacles are staged by the judge in a specifically sized area. The surface may consist of grass, dirt, or a rubber like material. Depending on the type of competition, the obstacles may have a different order in which they must be completed.

Expectations of the Dog Handler:

In the beginning, courses can be a rather complicated task for your dog. For the dog to correctly complete a course without the direction and training of a handler, just aint gunna happen. In competitions, the dog handler must first observe the course, decide on the best strategies, and direct their dog. Precision and speed are equally important.

What are the Basic Obstacles of a Course?

An A-frame is 2 broad ramps hinged together and raised so that the hinged connection is above the ground, roughly forming an A shape.

The Dog walk is 3 planks that connect at the ends. The center plank is raised to above the ground; so that the other 2 end planks form ramps that lead up and down.

A Teeter-totter is a single plank that pivots on a fulcrum, much like the traditional seesaw. It is constructed off-balance so that the same end is always on the ground.

The Crossover is a square platform, with ramps that descend from 3 or 4 of its sides. The dog must ascend and descend the correct ramp while changing direction.

A Tunnel is a long vinyl tube, through which the dog runs. The tunnel is constructed of flexible vinyl and wire so that it can be set in a straight line or curvy.

By Mark S.|November 18th, 2011|Agility Classes, Dog Training Classes|Comments Off

Private Education Lessons for Your Dog

Are you afraid of a commitment to a six week class? Are your dog’s behavioral issues targeted to one specific area? Maybe you and your dog would just prefer a more intimate one-on-one training session? Look into private lessons for your canine friend. This is perfect if you always have a busy schedule. Realistic training goals personalized around your schedule.

Advanced Education Lessons:

An advanced education course will help to strengthen your dog’s maturity in everyday situations. After the completion of this intensive 6 week process, your dog will earn a Graduation Degree. Main issues covered such as, remaining calm while given affection, loose leash walking and how to heel, learning without giving in to distractions and specific games to build good reliability.

Intermediate Education Lessons:

An intermediate education course will help to develop your dog’s ability to further learn behaviors involving distance, duration and distractions. After making it through this extensive 6 week process, your dog will earn a certificate of completion. Key areas covered include, a brief review of basic commands such as to stay from a distance, heel, or stand. Learn how to focus despite any distractions, and games that will help to form your relationship.

Beginner Education Lessons:

Mostly intended for puppies but also welcomes adult dogs that have had no prior training. After this intensive 6 week process, your dog will earn a certificate of completion. Key topics covered such as simple cues, like sit, come, and to stay down. Learn problem solving and using respectable house manners. Take on health, grooming and proper dog nutrition as well as proper relationship building games.

Personal Dog Training Camp:

Make your dog’s day even more exciting by getting signed up today in a personal training camp. These sessions offer hands on training just for you and your canine friend. The pet training instructors arm themselves with positive reinforcing techniques to teach your dog some new skills, or to staying on top of a previous bad behavior.

Private Puppy Education:

Give your puppy the right start with classes that will encourage good behavior while helping you create that strong lasting bond with your pet. Specific areas including, introduction a simple command, such as sit, come here and stay there. Show basic manners and good social skills with other people and other dogs. Learn about relationship establishing games and problem prevention guidelines. Also, learn some tips about health, grooming and puppy nutritional facts.

By Mark S.|November 16th, 2011|Dog Training Classes|Comments Off

The Different Competition Classes in Agility

Competition Classes in Agility:

Courses are designed by their own judges. They can also select from previously designed courses by using the rules of whom ever the funding organization. The course is laid out within a large area, with necessary distances between obstacles. Each class decides which dogs are worthy adversaries of achieving titles and how each task must be performed, but they all posses multiple similarities.

What are some common classes?

Junior courses are designed for the 18 and under crowd. These younger dog handlers may compete with their k9’s at beginner, elementary, intermediate, and senior levels. Each section has more obstacles and generally gets harder the more you progress.

Standard and Regular courses are both numbered. They consist of at least one of three primary obstacles include jumps, tunnels, and several weave poles. A more advanced dog course might consist of as many as 22 obstacles. A more minimal course might offer only about 15. The dog must properly navigate the obstacles. This must be achieved in the correct order within the standard course time.

Jumpers or Jumping course is numbered. This consists primarily of various types of challenging jumps, weave poles, and tunnels. The dog must navigate the obstacles in the correct order within the standard time of the course. Most dogs will achieve their fastest speeds on this course because there are no contact obstacles in the way to slow them down.

Gambles, Joker, and Jackpot courses are all unnumbered. In the opening period, the dog has only so much time in which to conquer appropriate tasks. The points awarded are based on the obstacles that have been completed. A whistle is blown when time runs out for the opening period. That’s when the gamble begins. There’s approximately 15 seconds to complete the tasks and obstacles.

Power courses are not timed. This game features the contact equipment, weaves, table, a-frame, spread jump, and the long jump. If this section is navigated without receiving a penalty, the dog and handler are then allowed to advance to the Speed course, which consists of a timed jumping section.

In the end, of any competition course, the dogs and their handlers that have competed have earned either a rosette or a bronze, silver, or gold medal. With many available sets of obstacles and plenty of room for error, there are many classes of competitions that can be played on the fields of agility.

By Mark S.|November 14th, 2011|Agility Classes, Dog Care Tips, Dog Training Classes, Private Lessons|Comments Off

Tips to Tricks For Your Pup (Part 2)

Sometimes a dog will have trouble learning a new trick. For example, not all dogs can learn to fetch. Some dogs have more instinct (they are born with it) than others when it comes to carrying things in their mouths.

Beg:

Have your dog sit, facing you. Hold his favorite treat just above his head and tell him, “Say please.” Your dog will probably lift his front feet off the ground to reach the treat. As soon as the feet are lifted, even a little bit, give him the dog treat.

Tip
This is a hard trick for most dogs. Wait a little longer each time before giving the treat, but be careful not to let your dog fall over on his back. You are helping your dog develop his balance. Be kind and only do this a couple of times.

Kiss:

Here’s an easy one: Every time your dog licks your face, say, “Give me a kiss. Good boy! Give me a kiss.” If he isn’t a licker, put a little peanut butter on your cheek and say, “Give me a kiss.” When he licks it off say, “Give me a kiss,” again.

Tip
Tricks like this work because you put words with something your dog does. Pretty soon your dog hears “Give me a kiss,” and thinks about licking your face. Then you give him a hug, rub his ears and say, “Good boy!” Dogs love that.

Roll Over:

Start by having your dog lie down on his belly. You can stand over him or kneel beside him. Using a treat, hold it by his nose, and then move it around and behind him, so that he lies on his side and then rolls over. Tell him what a great dog he is!

Tip
After your dog has figured out what he has to do to get a treat, start throwing the ball two times in a row without giving him the treat. What you are trying to do is give him the treats less and less often so someday he won’t need the treats in the ball to fetch it.

Say Hello:

Start by sitting on a chair. While holding a treat, put your hand between your knees and encourage your dog to get it. As soon as your dog’s chin touches your leg, say “Say Hello!”. Then say “Release” or “OK” and give him the treat after he lifts his head.

Tip
Only give your dog the treat after you have released him. Increase the time his chin is touching your leg, so eventually your dog will keep it there while you pet him. Then release him and reward him. Your dog will soon charm your friends with this trick!

Go Back:

This is an easy one! Stand facing your dog and as you walk toward him, say “Go Back”. He will want to get out of the way and will automatically walk backwards!

Tip
If your dog doesn’t walk back in a straight line, practice up against a wall or in a narrow hallway. After your dog is walking backward with you, try walking toward him only a step or two. Eventually, you will be able to stand still and say “Go Back”.

Take a Bow:

When you see your dog take a big stretch, with his head down low, say, “Take a bow.” Every time he wakes up and stretches, say, “Take a bow.” Someday you will say, “Take a bow.” and your dog will take a big stretch, but it will look like he is bowing. As soon as he is finished, give him the treat.

Tip
Dog tricks like this work because you put words with something your dog does. It may take some dogs longer than others to figure this one out. Some dogs learn it in a week and some take years…yes, years! But one day you will say, “Take a bow,” and maybe, just maybe, your dog will take a bow.

Lay Down:

With your dog in a stand position, take a treat and hold it near the floor, under his nose. As your dog reaches down to get it (he may try to lie down), slip your hand under his belly to hold his rear end up. Hold him in that position and say, “Take a bow.” Keep the treat right by his nose, but don’t feed him. Stay there for just a second, release him, and then feed the treat.

Tip:
If you feed your dog the treat while he is in the bowing position, in the future he won’t bow until he sees the treat in your hand. If he learns that the treat comes later, he’ll be willing to perform for you without it right there all the time.

By Mark S.|November 11th, 2011|Dog Care Tips|Comments Off